I. Introduction sewing thread
Sewing thread is the main thread-like material used to suture a variety of clothing materials, both practical and decorative dual function. The quality of sewing thread, sewing only affects the efficiency and quality of clothing and appearance of products and processing costs affect the joints. Therefore it is necessary to understand the knowledge of sewing thread.
Definition: sewing thread for sewing machine or hand sewn garments, leather products and plastic seam provides books and other strands used.
Second, the classification of sewing thread
1. the most common classification sewing thread raw material classification, including natural fiber sewing thread, sewing thread and mixed chemical fiber sewing three categories.
⑴ natural fiber sewing thread
a. cotton sewing thread: cotton fiber as raw material by refining and bleaching, sewing processes made sizing, waxing, etc. High strength, heat resistance, suitable for high speed sewing and durable press, the disadvantage is less flexibility and abrasion resistance. It can be divided into no light (or cord), light silk and wax light. Cotton sutures mainly for cotton fabrics, leather and high temperature ironing clothes sewing.
b. silk thread: made with natural silk or silk filament wire lines, have excellent luster, strength, flexibility and abrasion resistance are superior to cotton, suitable for sewing all kinds of silk clothing, luxury woolen garments, fur and leather clothing. China's ancient silk embroidery thread used to embroider beautifully decorated embroidery.
c. Ma sewing thread:
⑵ (chemical) synthetic sewing thread
a. polyester sewing thread: is the major sewing thread, polyester filament or staple fiber as raw material. Has high strength, good elasticity, abrasion resistance, low shrinkage, and good chemical stability, mainly used for sewing jeans, sportswear, leather products, wool and other uniforms. Here it should be noted that the low melting point polyester sutures, easy to melt at high speed sewing, needle blockage, leading to suture breakage, it is not suitable for high speed stitching garments.
b. nylon sewing thread: nylon sewing thread made from pure nylon multifilament made of wire filament, staple fiber lines and elastic deformation lines are three main varieties of nylon filament line. Its big advantage is that strength and elongation [MSOffice3], good elasticity, fracture length cotton three times higher than the same size, and thus suitable for sewing fiber, fabric, leather and elastic, and other apparel. Nylon sewing thread greater advantage lies in developing a transparent sewing thread, because this line transparent, and the color is better, thus reducing wiring and solve the difficulties of sewing, and development prospects, but the market is limited to the current stiffness too transparent lines big strength is low, easy to stitch fabric floating on the surface, together with its not high temperature, sewing speed is not too high, it is mainly used as applique, sewing pile side, but not for the commissure.
c. PVA sewing thread: the polyvinyl alcohol fibers, high strength, smooth stitches, mainly used for sewing thick canvas, furniture fabric, labor and other supplies.
d. acrylic sewing thread: made of acrylic fiber, mainly used for decorative lines and embroidery thread, lower yarn twist, dyed bright.
⑶ mixed sewing thread
a. polyester / cotton sewing thread: the use of 65% polyester and 35% cotton blended. Combines the advantages of both polyester and cotton, both to ensure the strength, abrasion resistance, shrinkage requirements, but also overcome the deficiencies polyester heat-labile, high-speed sewing adapt. Suitable for cotton, polyester / cotton and other types of clothing.
b Core Sewing Thread: to wire filament is outside the system of natural fibers coated sewing thread. And its intensity depends core, depending on the wear resistance and heat outsourcing yarn. Therefore, cored suitable for high speed sewing stitch sewing and the need of high-strength outfit.
2. sewing thread can be classified according to the package in the form of:
a. twisted: in accordance with the length and number of turns of wire wound;
b. wooden yarn group (or reel axis line): sewing thread wound on wooden shaft, also useful for plastic core. Cotton wax into the light, no light and light silk. Length of 450 yards, 500 yards, etc.;
c. paperboard line: winding sewing thread made of cardboard;
d. paper yarn group: wound on a core glazed cotton sewing thread, a length of 46-914 meters;
e. paper ball: sewing thread is wound into a ball. Finished length is generally 100 yards, the main system for hand sewing clothes, shoes, hats, etc., are also used for embroidery;
f. Zhixin line: simple cylindrical tube from paper sewing thread winding;
g. coil: sewing thread is wound on a core or plastic core tube with silk coil, coil polyester, nylon coil. Typically 50-500 yards, suitable for hand sewing and family;
h. pagoda line: sewing thread is wound on a paper tube or plastic cone Jane tube. Common specifications length of 3,000 meters and 50,000 meters, 10,000 meters and so on. Quality calculations have 95g (NW), 0.227kg high general strength, good lubricity, reduce the rate of small, wear-resistant, suitable for high-speed sewing machines, used industrial sewing, such as sewing garments, Jinbei and knitting, etc.;
3, use is divided into sewing thread, embroidery thread, industrial lines, etc.
a. civil lines: small volume-based, 50-1000 meters in length;
b. industrial lines: In large package mainly 1000-110000 meters in length.
Note: a sewing yarn is generally used :9-80;
c. sewing thread partnership has 2,3,4,6,9 shares, a maximum of 12 shares. 2 strands strength is low, generally used on thin fabric, 4 shares than three shares. 4 or more shares are generally non-clothing sewing thread;
d. sewing thread in order to improve the lubricity of the general process should be carried out after, usually cotton wax, polyester and nylon line silicone emulsion;
e. on the basic quality requirements sewing thread: sewing, durable, quality and appearance.
Third, the quality and application of sewing thread
Comprehensive assessment of the quality indicators are sewing thread can be sewn. Representation can be sewn under specified conditions, smooth sewing and sewing stitches to form a good, and the ability to maintain a certain online traces of mechanical properties. Seam can have a direct impact of the merits, it will garment production efficiency, quality sewing and wearability. According to national standards, grading sewing thread for first grade, second grade and substandard goods. In order to have the best sewing thread can be sewn in the garment processing, sewing satisfactory, proper selection and application of sewing thread is very important. Correct application of sewing thread, should follow the following principles:
⑴ characteristics are compatible with the fabric: the fabric and sewing the same or similar materials, in order to guarantee its shrinkage, heat resistance, wear resistance, durability and cause the appearance of uniform shrinkage, avoiding line difference between the fabrics.
⑵ consistent with the type of clothing: For special purpose clothing, sewing special features should be considered, such as elastic stretch sewing clothing required, fire suits required by heat, flame retardant and waterproof sewing thread processing.
⑶ coordination with trace shape: different parts of the different stitches used in clothing, sewing thread should change with it, such as the need to use bulky bag sewing thread or deformed wire, wire stitches should choose a large extension cord, crotch joints, shoulder stitches should fastness, abrasion resistance and buckle need eyeliner.
⑷ with the quality and price of unity: the quality and price of sewing thread and clothing should be unity grade, high-end clothing with good quality and high price of sewing thread, medium and low quality clothing in general, affordable sewing thread. In general, the signs are marked with sewing thread sewing thread level, the use of raw materials, yarn fineness, help us to choose and use a reasonable sewing thread. Sewing signs usually include four elements (in order): yarn thickness, color, materials, processing methods, can be used in the form of "60/2X3 white polyester line," said.
Fourth, special sewing - sewing retardant
1 Introduction
Fire Line (aka retardant cable), fire point is low, good flame-retardant effect, not ignite from the fire from the off, and waterproof, flame retardant to achieve permanent results, compared with no fire retardant lines will look the significant difference.
2 classification
Flame retardant sewing material is divided into:
1, pure polyester flame retardant cable
2, clear flame retardant cotton sewing thread
3, flame retardant aramid sewing thread
Specifications are divided into: 20S / 2,30 S / 3,40 S / 3,24 S / 4
3, Features
These three points lower fire retardant sewing thread with good flame-retardant effect, not ignite from the fire for a few seconds Jimie, high temperature above 300 degrees, and the permanent flame retardant, and do not compare with fire retardant lines together will see significant differences.
4, the scope
Applies to: fire protection, welding, fire temperature textile sewing, you can sew inorganic fire shutter, fire heat gloves, fire is, fire high temperature seals, insulation blankets, canvas, PVC tape, leather products , clothing, handbags, shoe, wallets, travel bags, leather gloves, tents, coverings, luggage, leather goods and so on.